When lead breaking Spot, a flat buckle leather or nylon collar works best. While the collar should not feel tight against Spot’s neck, it shouldn’t be loose enough to slide off over his head either.

Chain training collars, also called choke chains, are useful when working with dogs six months of age or older, although they are seldom necessary for training tiny dogs of any age. They are the collars most frequently used by people who compete in Obedience competition. When purchasing a chain training collar, look for one that has small links and releases instantly. When tightened, it should have one-and- a-half to two-and-a-half inches of excess chain before the ring attaches to the lead. The best fitting ones are a little snug sliding over the dog’s head. There is a right and a wrong way to put a choke chain on your dog. When worn correctly, the active ring (the one attached to the lead) will come across the top of the right side of your dog’s neck.

For training Spot, you’ll need a lead that is six feet long and as wide as feels comfortable in your hand. For just plain walks, you might be more comfortable using a shorter lead.

Most adult dogs are familiar with wearing a collar, but if Spot never had his own humans, let him get used to the feel of a collar before starting to train him. The first few times he wears one, play with him. If he’s a chow hound, put the collar on just before feeding time. Let him wear it a little longer each session until he pays no attention to it.

When Spot is accustomed to the collar, attach the lead and let him drag it around. Keep your eye on him so he doesn’t catch it on something and start struggling. When he becomes nonchalant about dragging the lead (or if he did not drag it at all because he was too busy playing with it), take him to an outdoor area with plenty of space. Then pick up your end of the lead and follow Spot wherever he takes you.

After Spot has enjoyed a couple sessions of leading you, attach his lead to the doorknob of a door that will remain shut when he pulls, and let him fight it out with a solid object instead of you. If Spot is a big, strong boy, you may have to take him outside and tie him to a tree. Stay in the room, or yard, but ignore Spot for five minutes. If Spot protests passionately, one minute may seem like five, so remember to time it instead of guessing. Be prepared for Spot to scream and struggle, but if there is nothing he can get tangled in, he won’t hurt himself. Five minutes of this, once or twice a day for a few days, is usually enough. When Spot calms down and knows how to relieve the pressure on his collar, take him back to an open area with lots of space.

This time allow Spot to lead you for a minute, then begin putting gentle pressure on the lead and choosing the direction you both go. Walk toward, not away from, familiar surroundings, and encourage him with happy talk. Spot doesn’t have to be in any particular position; out in front, behind, or beside you are all okay at this point.

Gradually, as Spot accepts your leadership and becomes confident enough to walk both toward and away from home with you, reel him in a little closer if he tries to pull you. When he walks near you on a loose lead, occasionally lean down and play with him or praise and pet him. If he still persists in pulling, put the lead in your right hand, place your right hand tightly against the front of your waist. Then put your left hand over your right to steady it. Pick a direction and start walking. Just as Spot is about to reach the end of the lead in front of you (an instant before he will pull), make a quarter turn to the right and continue walking at the same pace. Do not warn him, call him, or slow down for him. and wait until he catches up with you before talking to him. Then let him know you are delighted that he is by your side again by saying something like, “Oh, there you are,” as you give him a quick, playful pat. Repeat the quarter turn to the right as often as necessary.

Some dogs lag behind instead of pulling. If yours is still way behind you after a few sessions, turn to face him and run backward while clapping and encouraging him with your voice. When he catches you, play with him. If he is shy or fearful, allow him to catch up to you as soon as you see him make the effort.

Ten minutes a day is enough when lead breaking, and more than fifteen minutes is too much.

Pulling on the Lead

If your dog pulls so hard that walking him is a battle of strength and wills instead of fun, there is a solution. Even if you are 4' 10" and weigh just 90 pounds, you can easily control any size dog. How? Stop talking. Then go the opposite of where your dog wants to go. Now you’ve begun sneakaway sessions.

Sneakaway Sessions

For sneakaway sessions, Spot should wear a snug buckle collar that he cannot back out of. In addition, make or buy a long line—a fifteen- foot nylon line with a swivel snap at one end and a loop handle at the other. Put your right thumb in the handle of the line and clasp your fingers around the remainder of the strap. Then place your left hand under your right so there’s no slack between your hands, and hold both hands in front of you against your waist. The full fifteen feet of line should be dragging on the ground.

Modify your speed to fit the size of your dog. If your dog is short- legged or rather clumsy, walk more slowly than your normal pace. If your dog is scared or shy, and lags behind rather than pulling ahead, skip this section. Sneakaway sessions are not for him.

Part One: A Little Respect

The first goal is to teach Spot to walk within five feet of you on a slack line, in spite of distractions. Distractions are anything Spot is interested in, such as cats, fire plugs, birds, food, children, other dogs, or the door to your house.

Imagine standing in the center of a large hula-hoop with a five-foot radius. When Spot steps outside this imaginary circle, silently and swiftly walk away from him, and keep walking until he comes back into a five-foot radius of you. If he passes you and continues out of your radius, turn and walk in the opposite direction. Spot will be jerked when the line tightens because he isn’t attentive enough to realize you turned. Never move your arms to jerk him. The correction will be stronger and more meaningful when you keep your arms steady against your waist so that your full body weight powers into the line.

Even if you have an urge to warn Spot before the line tightens, don’t do it. To achieve the goal, your dog’s complete attention must be on you, not just one ear sort of cocked in your direction. When he can hear what you intend to do, he has no reason to watch you. Also, don’t praise Spot when he comes into your radius. Staying near you on walks is not something you should have to ask for and reward. Instead, it should become a way of life; an act of respect.

Why have Spot on a slack fifteen-foot line when your goal is to keep him from pulling when he is on a regular four-foot to six-foot lead? Because holding him on a tight lead does nothing to teach him respect, attention, and a sense of commitment to you. In fact, some dogs think a tight lead is fun and games, and the harder you pull, the harder they pull. The long, slack line allows you to build momentum so that the tug will be stronger if Spot lunges away.

At first, the line may tangle in Spot’s legs. Usually he can easily step out of his tangle if you continue walking slowly, but sometimes he may get hog-tied. When this happens, back up to put some slack in the line, take a step forward to tighten it and repeat until Spot moves forward to loosen the line. Avoid returning to rescue him or he may learn to tangle himself for sympathy and attention.

Some dogs think the line is a wonderfully wiggly chew toy. Discourage Spot from mouthing the line by having him wear it a few minutes a day in the house and commanding “No!” when he grabs it. If he won't drop it, spray Bitter Apple (mentioned earlier and available at pet supply shops) on the line.

Practice ten minutes a day for a week. With some dogs, you may speed results by training a half hour a day for two days before moving to Part Two. But don’t rush. Dogs accustomed to pulling people down the street may need additional time to change their attitude.

Part Two: Dealing with Distractions

After Spot consistently succeeds at staying in the five foot radius, practice around distractions. They will teach him to ignore his impulses and remember his responsibilities. Use food dropped on the ground, animals, and children, and practice in new places, like parks, supermarket parking lots, or near a kennel of barking dogs. When Spot discovers he can’t focus on other things and watch your movements at the same time, he’ll become attentive to you.

Now, instead of walking, run away when Spot leaves your radius and stop dead when he corrects himself and the line goes slack. When he is in your radius and attentive to you, walk slowly or stand still. If Spot doesn’t stop in your radius, turn and run in the opposite direction again. Running makes the correction stronger because you build more momentum. But don’t try for track records when training small dogs.

After several ten-minute, or a few thirty-minute sessions, combining tempting distractions with running away, Spot should be watching your movements and staying close. If he lunges ahead, run straight in the exact opposite direction, so he won’t be able to see your actions peripherally. With a strong, adult dog that has a bad pulling habit, build the maximum momentum by running away fast instead of gradually building speed. If there isn’t enough space in some areas for you to sneak away effectively, avoid taking Spot to those places until he’s ready for Part Three.

Part Three: Real Life

Once you have Spot’s attention around a variety of exciting distractions, and he seems to want to stay next to you on a slack line, you are ready to enforce the “no pulling’ ride on a six-foot lead. Hold the loop with your right thumb and grab up (he slack in your right hand. There should be no tension on the lead when Spot is standing beside you at your left side. Straighten your right arm with your knuckles against the right seam of your trouser leg, so the lead runs in front of your legs. Now walk briskly with Spot on your left.

If Spot tries to lunge ahead, open and close your hand so you drop the slack, thus giving him more rope. Grip the loop end, turn halfway around to the right, and run as fast as you can until he is running behind you on a slack lead. Then fold the slack into your right hand again. If Spot passes you as you run, turn and go in the opposite direction until he is happy to stay near you. Don’t jerk the lead at all. Your body will do that for you. If running is uncomfortable, walk with long, determined steps.

Spot may try to walk directly behind you. Correct that by shortening the slack in the lead, and be sure your right knuckles are against the outside seam of your pant leg. Then walk straight ahead briskly, and the force of your left thigh thrusting into the lead with every step, will bring him up beside you.

Now you have the know-how to teach Spot to take leisurely walks on a loose lead no matter who or what else is on the street, to stop rushing through gates and doors, and to remain attentive to you even if the neighbor’s cat vies for his attention. Allowing Spot to drag you around tells him that he is the leader mentally and physically, so be ready to sneak away any time he forgets the “no pulling” rule.

From here on, your dog only has to learn to respond to the commands “Sit,” “Down,” and “Stay,” and he will be a pleasure at home and away.